How to Decide What Materials and Methods to Use in Making Your Armour
There are many different reasons for making maille. Some make maile simply as a hobby. Others make it for use in re-enactments. Some wish to replicate period maille as closely as possible, and still others make it for show and for costumes. All of these possibilities will be considered here in an attempt to help you figure out how to make maille armour to suit your needs and wants.
There are three main factors to consider here:
I am certainly no expert on materials, but I should be able to help you out a bit. For hobbyists and those wanting costume maille, it really doesn't matter what type of metal your rings are made out of, just as long as the metal is strong enough to stay together when subjected to the stresses of normal use. If a metal is used that is too weak, your maille could literally pull itself apart under its own weight. Smaller ring sizes reduce this risk, but increase production time (this will be discussed more in a later section). ALUMINUM IS NOT APPROPRIATE FOR REENACTMENT USES. It is far too weak no matter what reasonable size rings and diameter of wire.
Aluminum produces very light maille, but it is not very strong. Aluminum will not rust or corrode. It also sounds different than other mailles. It does not "chink" as authentic maille would, instead it "tinkles". USE: for hobbyists and for costumes
Titanium produces very light maille as well, and it is exceptionally strong. Titanium will not rust or corrode. One of the main disadvantages to titanium is cost. Titanium is considerably more expensive than other metals. Another disadvantage of titanium is that it work hardens rather easily. What this means that if a piece of titanium wire is worked often enough, it will snap (like bending a paper clip repeatedly until it breaks). USE: It's light weight and high strength make titanium a strong choice for reenactments, if the wearer doesn't seek authenticity. Also for hobbyists and for costumes.
Galvanized steel is another option for those who aren't concerned with authenticity. I really have no experience with galvanized steel wire, but I believe it should allow for larger rings or smaller gauge wire while still retaining a maille that is sufficiently strong to withstand its own stresses. The only disadvantage I can think of about galvanized steel is that there is a coating on it that slows the healing process. So if you cut yourself on the wire, the wound will take longer to heal. I have never severely cut myself making maille, but I have had many scratches and minor cuts, so this may become in important factor with galvanized wire. USE: for all but those seeking authenticity
Iron and steel are about as close as we moderns are going to be able to come to authentic materials without making wire from scratch. One of these will be the best options for those seeking authenticity. Of these two, steel is probably not as historically accurate. In my experience, it is much easier to find though. USE: Iron and steel can serve anyone's purpose.
Although technically there are an infinite number of possible ring sizes within a certain (rather small) range, there are only a few that concern us here. These are the sizes you are likely to find dowels in for wrapping your wire around. These sizes are 1/4", 5/16", and 3/8". (These are all inside dimensions by the way.) Despite the seemingly insignificant difference between these ring sizes, there is a large difference when the maille is taken as a whole. Making a piece of maille with 5/16" rings takes a noticeably longer time to complete than a piece of maille with 3/8" rings. The 3/8" size is not authentic, the other two are. I have compared the penetration distance of a knife stab with maille made from 3/8" rings versus maille made with 5/16". rings and there is a noticeable difference. A knife penetrates farther through the maille made from 3/8" rings. Maille made from 3/8" rings is also more susceptible to being pried apart by a thrusted blade.
There are other decisions that go along with ring size, such as methods to strengthen rings. Most period maille was either riveted, welded, heat-treated, or worked with some combination of the three. Period maille required riveting or welding because the metal technology was not as good as it is today. I have experience with riveting and welding rings, Both are highly time consuming processes. Each and every link has to be riveted or welded to be effective. Welding takes a lot less time than riveting. I will be making a page on the process of riveting maille and one for welding.
Heat treating, however, I highly recommend. It is a simple and easy way to increase the strength of your maille. Because after all, who wants the hauberk they just spent 75 (OR MORE) hours making to get damaged because of some unforeseen mishap? And if you expect to be taking blows in a reenactment, heat treating is almost a requirement. Heat treating is simply a process of heating the metal, then quenching it in a liquid. The rapid cooling hardens the metal. I would recommend using a very light oil (just about any kind of light oil will work) to quench your maille. This will serve the dual purpose of supercooling your maille and protecting it from rust. But whatever you choose to use to quench your maille, make sure it is at ROOM TEMPERATURE. Do not use a cold liquid, as a temperature difference that is too large can cause your rings to shatter, not a pleasant occurrence after so much work.
I would also recommend contacting the company that makes the wire you use and ask them how best to heat treat your maille. They should be able to give you specifics on optimal temperatures and such. They may even be willing to give you the chemical composition of the wire if you are interested in knowing how close your wire is to being authentic.
There are two basic ring patterns, 4 on 1, and 6 on 1. With the 4 on 1 pattern, each ring has four rings attached to it. With the 6 on 1 pattern, each ring has, you guessed it, six rings attached to it. The 6 on 1 pattern was a later development than the 4 on 1 pattern as a result of stronger longbows and crossbows. The 6 on 1 weave is tighter and stronger, so it is less susceptible to penetration by arrows or bolts. It is also heavier than 4 on 1. Most authentic maille that I have seen has been of the 4 on 1 variety, but both are equally authentic. If you are using your maille along with a character you have developed, ring pattern is somewhat important. The earlier your character dates, the more likely that character would have used 4 on 1 maille.